Best climbing nuts vs hexes reddit. Double up 2-7. We have all kinds of really cool cams, and other styles of chocks/nuts/whatever. Placing nuts are intuitive, they are inexpensive, and will last you a long time. I have 37 wires, 7 Hexs and at least 9 cams. Learn how to place, remove and rack climbing hexes. But if you’re new to trad climbing, how do you make sure that you’re getting the best climbing nuts? With climbing experience, you build your own personal preference. Jun 4, 2025 · Climbing nuts are one of the first pieces of trad protection climbers will purchase. Also have a few micros of offsets & stopper/rock/nuts. Just use the sideways long end of the nut tool and smack the hex as hard as you can from the wire or sling side like your hitting something with a hammer. For unknown long climbs . I don't believe it. Certainly a good deal better than Black Diamond Hexcentrics, and far, far better than Metolius Ultralight Curved hexes. But don’t underestimate the benefits of their counterpart: the nut. What do you like about hexes? What are your favorite hexes? What features do you look for? I am interested in them and want to learn from people with experience (and no one I know is into them or uses them). We have been climbing for a while, guiding professionally Learn how to place hexes; how to use them passively (like a nut) or actively so they cam into cracks. When I started trad climbing, I couldn't afford the cams, so I led exclusively on nuts, hexes, and tricams for probably 40 of my first 50 pitches on gear. Hexes clean as quickly as a nut that you need a nut tool to get out, often times quicker. An alpine climbing rack should be pretty small and light, you shouldn't have maybe more than around 5 cams and a set of nuts, so carrying a #4, #5, #6 even a #3 seems like a lot of weight and pretty big gear to carry for that type of climbing. They’re easy to use and contract to fit a variety of crack sizes. Good places to stand and place and fiddle with a hex are good places to break an ankle. Once placed you can set them fairly hard. I'm still pretty new at trad climbing and I was a hex sceptic until the other day - I went climbing somewhere different to my usual haunt - a rather exposed cliff where the erosion had scooped out the most marvellous hex placements - absolutely bomber! They are pretty decent, but in my opinion not the best hex. . Nuts are passive protection devices, meaning that their holding power comes from their wedge shapes, cleverly placed in natural slots and constrictions (as opposed to cams, which Once I started climbing on gear routes that physically challenged my climbing ability the rapid placement of a cam became welcome [1]. if the rock type is suited to offsets have a set of theirs also. I find the hexes and offsets tend to have the strongest placements and get placed more often but I definely still use the nuts a lot. See full list on rei. Aug 8, 2022 · When many people start trad climbing, cams become their new best friend. Sep 16, 2011 · - Hexes come in a wider range of sizes and go far bigger than nuts will. com Nov 23, 2016 · Hey Matt, if you are going up the learning curve in trad climbing, I highly recommend you buying hexes. - Hexes can be used in placements where the sides are almost parallel, due to the camming action of pulling on them - they were used for this before sprung camming devices were invented and it can make them a bugger to remove at times! - nuts can't be used to improvise cow I am somwhat confused about the places of hexes in a modern trad setting. if you can place a hex = elephant bomb proof! but the weight, take only what you expect to place size 3 & 6 if you have a full set of nuts. Nuts=Stoppers Have a full set. Don't let DMM's marketing fool you though that those four sizes replace six sizes of conventional hexes. The extend-able sling setup is brilliant and . I've recently started trad climbing as well and am using DMM nut set 3 (includes a set of nuts, offsets and hexes). ydb dxtqd rhpqu llmenz ctunh jigoq uuvt qcylkn xpoy kyxiwsnf